Exploring Setouchi: Beyond Japan's Golden Route to Scenic Valleys and Coastal Treasures

Stepping outside a 300-year-old thatched farmhouse in the Iya Valley, the sounds of cicadas and rustling leaves enveloped me, a stark contrast to the bustling cities of Japan. My travels had typically revolved around the well-trodden paths of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, but on this sixth visit, I seized the chance to venture beyond the Golden Route, embarking on a road trip rich with cultural gems and breathtaking landscapes.

After a brief domestic flight from Tokyo to Okayama, I grabbed the keys to a car and watched the urban skyline give way to a lush terrain dotted with traditional structures. The journey led me toward the picturesque Seto Inland Sea and its scenic surroundings, providing an immersive experience unlike any city backdrop.

Kurashiki: A Historical Canal Town

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My first stop was Kurashiki, a beautifully preserved canal district just 45 minutes from the airport. The area, characterized by its white-walled warehouses and weeping willows lining the waterways, felt like stepping back in time. I settled into the Kurashiki Kokusai Hotel, where a striking piece by renowned artist Shikō Munakata dominates the lobby, a fitting introduction to the town's artistic heritage.

Exploring the Bikan Historical Quarter brought me face-to-face with charming shops, galleries, and cafés, all housed in restored Edo-period buildings. A leisurely 20-minute riverboat ride offered a unique view of the historic architecture and the serene surroundings, making it a notable highlight of my visit.

Shortly afterward, a drive to Kojima revealed the birthplace of Japanese denim. At the Betty Smith Jeans Museum & Village, I dove into the hands-on process of customizing my own pair of jeans, a surprisingly strenuous yet memorable endeavor. After crafting my unique piece, it was time to indulge in regional cuisine at Takuzen, where I savored Spanish mackerel presented in three delectable preparations—grilled, raw, and tempura, perfectly paired with steaming rice and miso soup.

Naoshima and Takamatsu: Art and Nature Intertwined

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A 45-minute drive brought me to Uno Port, the launching point for my next destination—Naoshima, an island revered for its contemporary art. A colorful ferry ride led me to Miyanoura Port, where the first sight was an iconic pumpkin sculpture by Yayoi Kusama, setting the tone for the artistic exploration ahead.

Naoshima lends itself to exploration by electric bike, showcasing architectural marvels designed by Tadao Ando and a host of impressive installations. The newly inaugurated Naoshima New Museum of Art presents a collection spotlighting contemporary Asian art. Make sure to reserve a spot at the Chichu Art Museum, home to masterpieces from Claude Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria, anchoring Naoshima's significance in the art scene. The Benesse House museum-hotel offers a unique fusion of lodging and art, making it a worthy stop for art lovers.

Next, I boarded a ferry to Takamatsu, where Ritsurin Garden awaited. Touted as a hidden gem compared to its more famous rivals in Kyoto, Ritsurin offers beautifully landscaped areas that evolve with every turn—ponds, bridges, and meticulously pruned trees create an immersive experience. The highlight? The picturesque Hiraiho Hill, featuring a stunning view of a traditional arched bridge.

At the Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum, I found a treasure trove of insights into the artist's dual heritage. Noguchi’s studio and the garden stand as intimate glimpses into his artistic journey. Unfinished works nestled alongside completed sculptures embodied his cultural narrative. Another enriching experience came at Nakano Udon School, where I got my hands dirty kneading and cutting Sanuki udon, punctuated with the joy of stomping on dough encased in plastic.

For accommodations, I chose Kyomisanso Hanajukai, a hotel perched over the Seto Inland Sea, complete with an onsen offering breathtaking city views. After a day filled with exploration, I was treated to a splendid kaiseki dinner tailored to showcase seasonal ingredients, transforming mealtime into an artful experience.

Iya Valley and Naruto: Nature's Embrace

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The transition from Takamatsu to the Iya Valley was a three-hour drive, but it felt like another world altogether. As I navigated the winding roads through verdant mountains and quaint homesteads, it was clear I was tapping into the heart of rural Japan, the experience elevated by the remoteness I sought.

At Tougenkyo-Iya, a collection of charming, restored thatched farmhouses, I was enveloped in a serene atmosphere. Dinner consisted of freshly prepared soba noodles shared around an irori hearth, with mountain landscapes as my backdrop. Nights spent under a starlit sky were a reminder of the tranquility that eluded city life.

Crossing the Iya Kazurabashi vine bridge provided a thrill as I gazed down into the rushing river below. The nearby Oboke Gorge offered a panoramic perspective of Japan’s natural wonders through a sightseeing boat, highlighting the country's diverse beauty.

I went to see the captivating Naruto Whirlpools next. These tidal wonders beneath Onaruto Bridge are best appreciated during specific times of day. Arriving too late meant I missed the spectacular views of swirling waters; timing your visit within 90 minutes of the tides is crucial to witnessing this natural phenomenon fully.

To conclude my time in Tokushima, I stayed at the AoAwo Naruto Resort, perfectly located near the whirlpools. Each room boasts stunning views, while the culinary offerings emphasize local specialties like Naruto sea bream, ensuring that every meal was memorable.

Awaji Island and Osaka: A Return to Urban Life

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The following morning, my journey led me across the Onaruto Bridge to Awaji Island. Despite its compact size, the island is rich in natural beauty and cultural experiences. Awaji Hanasajiki offered a stunning display of sunflowers, presenting a vibrant landscape that was not only photogenic but invigorating.

One highlight was working with traditional Awaji clay at Gallery Tsuchiza, where I crafted my own jewelry while discovering the local artistic heritage. Perhaps the most serene moment came at Zenbo Seinei, where I participated in guided meditation under the soothing sounds of nature, followed by a matcha tea ceremony—a gentle reminder to slow down amidst my adventures.

As the week came full circle, heading back to Osaka brought a whirlwind of contrasts. The city's electric pulse, bustling restaurants, and neon lights felt a world apart from my tranquil excursions, reminding me of the diverse experiences Japan has to offer.

Ultimately, my exploration of Japan's Setouchi region revealed an intricate blend of culture, history, and nature. The journey forged a deeper understanding of Japan beyond its major cities, showcasing the allure that lies off the beaten path.