A former summer ski school now anchors a remote Iceland stay, with geothermal baths, guided highland trips and lodging from campsites to private lodges.
Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll makes the case for the Central Highlands as a destination in their own right: a place to stay among hot springs, volcanic terrain and mountain weather, rather than a quick stop on a longer Iceland itinerary. The tradeoff is practical. Reykjavík is about 124 miles and 3.5 hours away by road, and reaching the property requires planning around rough roads and seasonal access.
The hotel sits in Ásgarður Valley, on the former site of a summer ski school where Icelanders skied for generations. The school closed in 2000 as the snowfields diminished. In 2023, the group behind the Retreat at Blue Lagoon opened Highland Base, combining hotel rooms, lodges, A-frame huts and a campground with geothermal baths. The property is within Kerlingarfjöll, a nature reserve since 2020.
Its past is visible in vintage photographs lining the halls: skiers in 1960s alpine clothes standing on summer snow beneath the valley’s rhyolite hills. That history gives the property a sense of place beyond its contemporary Nordic design. The building feels tied to the valley, while the accommodation lets guests settle in for several days of exploring.
A room with the highlands outside
Photo: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll
The lodge’s most effective design feature is its largest window. It fills much of one wall, framing Ásgarður Valley and the property’s colorful A-frame huts. From inside, the river and changing light become the main attraction; there’s little need for another view of the outdoors on a screen.
Highland Base offers several ways to stay, which matters in a remote area where choosing the right level of comfort can shape the whole trip. The property has 46 rooms and two suites in its main building, six lodges, seven A-frame huts and a campground. Prices provided for summer and fall 2027, as of the writer’s October 2026 visit, start at $502 per night for hotel rooms and $1,097 for lodges. The campground is scheduled to operate June 15 through September 30, 2027, with pitches starting at $25 per adult per night.
Bathing and guided trips through Kerlingarfjöll
Photo: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll
The Highland Baths offer a gentler way to take in the surroundings after a day outdoors. Set near the riverbed, the geothermal mineral pool looks across Ásgarður Valley. A sauna, cold plunge and bar round out the bathing area. The mix of warm water and mountain views makes it an experience with a clear sense of place, rather than simply another hotel amenity.
For guests who want help navigating the terrain, the property runs guided hikes, e-bike outings and buggy tours. On a hike to Hveradalir, or “Valley of Hot Springs,” a guide led the group past steam vents and mineral-colored slopes. The area is especially fragile: thin ground surrounds some vents, so visitors need to stay on the marked paths and boardwalks. In October, with summer visitors gone, the group had the valley largely to itself.
Buggy trips offer a different way to cover the area. Riders put on insulated overalls and protective gear before following a guide through Hveradalir. Highland weather can change quickly: during the same October visit, snow flurries arrived during the morning hike, followed by clear blue skies for the ride. That variation is part of the appeal, but it also argues for taking local conditions seriously.
Guides aren’t required for every outing. Visitors can set out on shorter walks or plan full-day expeditions past hot springs, bubbling mud pools, waterfalls, volcanic peaks and glacier views. Staff can advise on routes and conditions before departure. Highland Base also rents items including hiking boots, poles, crampons and waterproof clothing, though bringing personal weatherproof layers is still a sensible part of planning.
After outdoor activities, the restaurant serves an Icelandic waffle bar daily from 3:00 to 5:00 PM. Heart-shaped waffles and hot cocoa make for a low-key afternoon pause before dinner.
Dining when there’s nowhere else nearby
Photo: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll
The restaurant is the only dining option in the immediate area, making its range more than a convenience. Its à la carte menu changes between summer and winter. Dishes during the visit included Icelandic lamb, freshly caught cod, roasted broccoli and beef with mashed potatoes. Dessert brought a more unexpected pairing: dill and apple sorbet served over white chocolate and coconut mousse.
Breakfast is included for hotel and lodge guests; other visitors can buy it. The kitchen can also prepare takeaway breakfast and lunch boxes for people heading out on the trails. That’s a useful detail in a setting where the day’s route may take guests far from the restaurant.
Autumn brings hiking daylight and a chance of aurora
Photo: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll
September and October offer a useful balance for travelers who want both daytime outings and a chance to see the northern lights. There’s still daylight for hiking, while darker evenings create opportunities to spot the aurora. On the writer’s final night, green ribbons appeared through fast-moving clouds. With little light pollution in the Central Highlands, the display had a dark sky as its backdrop.
Aurora sightings are never guaranteed, and conditions in Iceland can shift quickly. The shoulder season’s draw is the combination of longer outdoor days than winter brings and the possibility of a clear, dark night—not certainty about the weather or the lights.
The drive and seasonal access
Photo: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll
Getting to Highland Base is part of the trip. The roughly 3.5-hour drive from Reykjavík covers around 124 miles, much of it on gravel roads through a region of glaciers, lava fields and rhyolite. From Gullfoss, drivers take Route 35, also known as Kjalvegur, north into the highlands, then turn east onto F347 for the final stretch. Access has become easier over time, but the route still calls for an F-road-approved 4×4 while the mountain road is open.
Property bus transfers provide another option, with schedules tied to the season. In June and September, transfers run on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays. They operate daily in July and August. From October, when the roads are no longer serviced, access is by super jeep with a professional driver. In that period, transfers in run on Thursdays and Fridays, while return trips depart on Saturdays and Sundays. Travelers should check the current schedule when booking.
Winter conditions can extend the journey, so Highland Base recommends leaving at least 24 hours between checkout and a departing flight. That buffer reflects the central reality of a stay here: the setting is the point, but remoteness shapes the logistics. For guests prepared to build that time into the trip, the hotel offers a base for exploring a part of Iceland where hot springs, open trails and mountain weather start just beyond the window.
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